Archive for May, 2011

May 10, 2011

5 travel tips for getting around Paris

Walking in Paris

Hey, you're walking in Paris, don't look so serious! (Julia Pelish Photo)

Paris is one of those great big cities that can overwhelm as well as frustrate travelers. Having just gotten back from a nearly two-week stay, here are some of my travel tips that are fresh in mind. These ones are transportation-related (although the first one is a bit of stretch to fit that category) and I’ll have some others on here later in the week:

1. Don’t stop – Book your tickets to the Louvre online. On many days, you can stand two hours in line before you enter the world’s most visited museum. While the glass Pyramid and the Louvre’s courtyard are beautiful to look at, doing so for 120 minutes will make you as mad as van Gogh. Not many people are aware you don’t have to endure the wait. Sign up for an account with FNAC Spectacles and you’ll be able to order your tickets online (for the Louvre and other attractions). FNAC is a ticket seller like TicketMaster. You’ll have to pick up your tickets before you go to the Louvre. FNAC has locations throughout Paris, with one of the main ones standing across the street from Saint Lazare Station, about a 20-minute walk to the museum. The cost of a single ticket through FNAC is 11.60 euros, only 1.60 euros more than the regular admission price, and that’s a small charge to pay to avoid the massive queue. Take your pre-purchased ticket to the entrance beneath the arch of Pavilion Richelieu in the courtyard. You can also buy tickets to special exhibits online, but I’d advise against doing so. Once you get inside, the lineups aren’t long to purchase extras and you can do so at some automatic machines that don’t charge the premium that ticket resellers do.

2. Travel underground. Buy Metro tickets in bulk (12 euros will get you a book of 10) and study the system so you know the most efficient way to get where you want to go. Don’t discard your ticket once you’ve passed through the turnstile; at some stations you will need to re-use your ticket to either exit or connect to another train (which happens if you’re traveling on a line that services suburban areas as well as the city). If you do have to change trains to reach your destination, budget five minutes to get from platform to platform. The tunnel system is vast and the lines can be far apart from each other. Beware that some older trains don’t have doors that open automatically. You’ll either have to push a button or turn a handle to get on or out. The Metro has 16 lines and runs from 5:30 a.m. until 1:15 a.m. from Sunday to Thursday and until 2:15 a.m. on Friday and Saturday. A single ride costs 1.80 euros.

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May 7, 2011

Paris travel tips from Canadians living abroad

The Marais area in Paris

The Marais is one of the areas Canadians living in Paris recommend you visit.

PARIS — Many Canadians are living the dream of spending extended time in the City of Light — some have even made it their permanent home. They offered me an insider’s view of Paris — from how to get the best meals at the best prices to what it’s really like to live here — and you’ll read about their thoughts on this site and in the Toronto Star’s Travel section in the next couple of months. For now, here are some of the best travel tips I received from those expats while spending time with some of them during this visit that I am wrapping up.

Food: The travel tip you’re most likely to take advantage of is this one from Dave Holmes: “When you go to a bistro, order the special of the day. You’re probably not going to go wrong. That’s what they’ve bought fresh that day and you can count on it being good.” Otherwise, he says, you might get something the restaurant has in the freezer that they just re-heat. Dave and his wife, Sarah, moved from Vancouver a couple of years ago and, being foodies, have enjoyed Parisian cuisine. They count a meal at Le Chateaubriand — recently named the top restaurant in France and the ninth best in the world by Restaurant Magazine — as their most memorable in Paris.

Gems you may not have heard of: Yvonne Martin, an interior designer from Toronto, introduced me to O’Neil, believed to be the first microbrewery in Paris. “Sometimes I just need a beer,” she says, and O’Neil serves four kinds — blonde, blanche, brune and amber. You’re sure to find one you like. The blanche was terrific. We didn’t try the food; Yvonne says it is only so-so. O’Neil is on the Left Bank, near the Latin Quarter. Other recommendations include the scene on Canal Saint Martin, walking Buttes-Chaumont Parc and living it up in the Marais. (More on those spots in the future.)

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