Archive for ‘Food and Drink Writing’

April 11, 2011

Signatures in Yorkville wants you to bring your own wine

Sea Bass with Thai Yellow Curry at Signatures

Sea Bass with Thai Yellow Curry at Signatures is paired with two kinds of white wine - one from the restaurant, one from a guest.

Put a bottle of wine in front of Andrew Gajary and you’ve started a conversation. The general manager of the InterContinental Yorkville is the kind of connoisseur who doesn’t just drink wine, he discusses it with scholarly passion. Gajary can go into detail about varieties and regions and textures and pairings. All while admiring a label. He’ll also tell you he’s not alone in his obsession in this city.

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April 8, 2011

The Carlton adds to options for Toronto foodies

Chef Christopher Moreland of The Carlton.

Executive Chef Christopher Moreland of The Carlton, located at the new Holiday Inn.

Dinner at the Holiday Inn?

May not sound like much of a date night. Christopher Moreland, though, wants to remind us of this hotel chain’s importance to small communities and generations past. While presenting samples from the menu of The Carlton, the new restaurant operated by the recently opened Holiday Inn Downtown Centre, Moreland reminisced about his childhood and the excellent food his family would receive during visits to Chatham. He said the franchise hotel there was run by a German family and the food would be a draw for the city.

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March 29, 2011

Touching charity event in Mono raises funds and spirits after awful attack

If you measure the strength of community by its capacity for compassion, then the tiny town of Mono is one mighty place.

In December, a horrific attack left area resident Shelley Lorraine Loder in critical condition in Toronto’s Sunnybrook hospital. On Saturday, I attended a fundraiser at the Mono Community Centre that drew 240 people and raised well over $20,000 for the Loders, according to co-organizer Hazel McGuiness. The event featured a five-course dinner provided by five of the Hills of the Headwaters’ finest restaurants, as well as a silent auction, a live auction, a cash bar, and an abundance of camaraderie and goodwill in a community that needs it.

“It’s really left people feeling shaken,” McGuiness said of the attack. “It’s true that no one here locked their doors before this happened and now they do. A lot of the women in the area are frightened.”

The unknown assailant, who broke into Loder’s home, has yet to be arrested, which is cause for anxiety.

When McGuiness learned that one of her Hazel Tree clients had been assaulted she immediately wanted to help. She got in contact with Wayne Biegel, everyone’s favourite pubkeep at Peter Cellar’s Pub at the Mono Cliffs Inn. Together, they sparked interest from businesses and benefactors, got Mayor Laura Ryan involved, and in just 11 weeks pulled off a really fine event that served as both a fundraiser and a spirit-lifter.

Glen Loder, Shelley’s husband, said during his speech on Saturday he was “overwhelmed by the generosity and support” his family received from Mono, a town of about 7,500 people.

Shelley Lorraine Loder, an accomplished photographer who often volunteered her services to community events, is steadily improving.

If you’d like to donate, a trust fund has been set up under her professional name (“Shelley Lorraine Trust Fund”) and you’ll probably be able to deposit money into its TD Canada account. Better yet, get to know this community.

Take a drive up to the Mono Cliffs Inn and drop in on Wayne (pictured here). You’ll find out why he runs the best pub going and he’ll let you know how to continue helping the Loders.

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March 17, 2011

5 best Irish pubs in Toronto on St. Patrick’s Day

No, I haven’t had a pint in all of them. Of the many I have visited in Toronto, though, these five have earned repeat business.

  1. Watermark. Great location at Queen’s Quay Terminal with the best food of any Irish pub I’ve tried in Toronto. When it’s warmer, get a seat on the patio for a view of the activity on Lake Ontario and the bustle on the Harbourfront. For a late-night summer drink, the Watermark’s a terrific spot. Try the Lobster Club ($15). It’s my spot for St. Patrick’s Day this year. (207 Queens Quay West, 416-214-2772)
  2. The Roy Public House. It’s got a Deep-Fried Mars Bar ($6.95). With Guinness ice cream. How authentic is that? And it’s as gooey and sticky as you’d think. Although the Roy is pretty new, it’s décor in this old Leslieville building is antiquey, giving it some great ambience. For an Irish pub, it’s also got good service. (894 Queen Street East, 416-465-3331)
  3. Irish Embassy. Since the Real Sports Bar opened I haven’t been here as much, but the Irish Embassy is still a reliable place for a good pint and food that’s better than the usual pub grub. Aside from Thursday nights, when Bay Street jams in, you can usually find a seat right away or without too long of a wait. The best part is you can get food from the late-night menu until 1 a.m. (49 Yonge Street, 416-866-8282)
  4. The Unicorn. When I moved back to Toronto, one of the first places I wanted return to was the Uni. Although it’s showing its years, it still seems lively on the weekends, with some good music. There’s some nostalgia here for a lot of us who went to university in Toronto and that’s part of the appeal. (175 Eglinton Ave. East, 416-482-0115)
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September 4, 2010

Vij’s in Vancouver is Worth the Wait

[From “Vancouver chef reinvents Indian food”, published in the Toronto Star on September 3, 2009]

VANCOUVER, British Columbia–On a damp and grey Saturday, diners line up outside Vij’s an hour before the doors open at 5:30 p.m.

There’s room for nearly 200 diners in the 2,000-square-foot eatery in Vancouver’s South Granville district, which New York Times food critic Mark Bittman has described as “easily among the finest Indian restaurants in the world.”

Those who arrive too late for the first sitting either spill over to Rangoli, a more casual sister restaurant next door with lower prices and smaller portions, or crowd into an alcove at the back of Vij’s to wait 90 minutes or more for a table. There, strangers mingle and wait staff pass around hors d’oeuvres that won’t show up on the bill, treats like cassava fries and puri.

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August 7, 2010

Graham Elliot a Delight in Chicago

[From “This Chicago Chef Rocks” in the Toronto Star, August 7, 2010]

CHICAGO—Chef Graham Elliot Bowles believes you should be entertained when you dine out, not just satisfied. Pretty early on in a visit to his Chicago restaurant, it becomes clear the 33-year-old aspiring rock star with a physique Pillsbury would endorse has a bit of Spielberg in him.

Popcorn is the first indication you’re in for a show. At Graham Elliot, it arrives in a basket where bread would go at just about any other place; it’s drizzled with truffle oil, parmesan cheese and chives. Bowles could scoop loads of the stuff into brown bags and sell it on the down low to those he’s addicted.

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