Archive for ‘Travel Writing’

October 12, 2011

Huether Hotel is a treasure in downtown Waterloo

David Occhipinti at Jazz Room Waterloo

Guitarist David Occhipinti leads his trio at the newly opened Jazz Room. (Julia Pelish photo)

WATERLOO, ONTARIO — Sonia Adlys, all five feet of spunk of her, walks around the Huether Hotel near midnight and marvels at the place. She’s been working at the landmark building for 51 years, yet looks around it with the same expression of wonder one of her guests might wear when introduced to the Huether, a delightfully peculiar place with a distinctive sense of comfort and cool.

Adlys, her husband, Bernie, and their three sons and one daughter have turned the property at King and Princess Streets into one of the most eclectic and fun hangouts in Ontario. Like the Gladstone and Drake hotels in Toronto’s funky Queen West West neighbourhood, the Huether is a multi-purpose venue with a music hall, café, restaurant and bustling bar. Unlike those better-known hotels, the Huether has one unique and definitive plus: A family atmosphere that the Adlyses have cultivated.

“Someone in the family is here all the time and when we couldn’t be here, because we were at my son’s wedding, we made sure we had a police officer on duty the entire night so no minors would be served and things wouldn’t get out of hand,” says Sonia as she gives me a tour around the historic hotel in Waterloo’s wonderfully vibrant, surprisingly upscale downtown.

READ ABOUT THE DRAKE HOTEL

The Huether is the epicentre of nightlife for a range of the city’s residents, who move and mingle and meld in one another’s interests in a 12,000-plus-square-foot space. In the recently opened café, you’ll spot a 20-something working on a laptop while around the corner seniors tap their feet in the month-old Jazz Room. University kids fill the pool hall and beneath them dinner parties occupy the private dining cave that was excavated in 1987. Another adjacent, step-down dining room has tunnels that the Adlyses have boarded up. “I don’t know where those tunnels went, but this building was around during Prohibition and the Seagram’s facility was just nearby,” Adlys said, offering an explanation for one of the Huether’s curiosities.

Sonia Adlys of Huether Hotel

Sonia Adlys has worked at the Huether for more than a half century. (Julia Pelish photo)

During the week, Research in Motion executives hold business meetings in the upstairs restaurant called the Barley Works while office workers convene on the spacious patio. At the 2,000-square-foot main restaurant that’s been home to the Lion Brewery for decades, blue-collar workers throw back one of the Huether’s nine microbrews. More than 1,000 patrons can fit into the hotel at a time.

“We have so many different kinds of people who come in here,” Adlys said after I took in a recent Jazz Room performance from Juno Award nominee David Occhipinti. “It’s really part of the neighbourhood here.”

What you won’t find at the circa 1842 building that’s named after its original owners is a hotel guest. The Adlyses rent the property’s 16 rooms to students for a bargain rate of about $400 a month. If you’re thinking the Huether beats living in a residence dorm room, you’re ready to ace an exam on co-ed sociology.

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September 27, 2011

At Kitchener hot spot, Oktoberfest spirit never ends

Cat from Edelweiss Tavern

Cat is one of the cheery staff members working at the Edelweiss Tavern.

KITCHENER, ONTARIO — Thousands gather each fall in this city formerly called Berlin for the largest Oktoberfest celebration outside of Munich. At the Edelweiss Tavern, though, the good times go all year, thanks to owner Lorne Miller and his insistence on generous customer service.

Here are Miller’s keys to success:

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September 26, 2011

The Great Dessert Search, Edition No. 3: Crème Brûlée Shooter from Glowbal

VANCOUVER — How can you make custard with a burnt sugar top even better? Add an ounce of liquor, in the form of Crème de Cacao and Bailey’s, and you will find yourself with more than a few repeat visitors.

Creme Brulee Shooter - Glowbal Vancouver

Glowbal's signature dessert shooter is $8 worth of bliss.

That’s what’s happened with the dessert shooter at Glowbal, a Yaletown spot that’s known for its beautiful patrons and dependable food. Residents in Vancouver’s hip neighbourhood drop into Glowbal for Sunday brunch and weekend dinners, with the seafood choices changing often and usually being the highlight of the entrée selections. One of restaurant’s signature offerings, though, has nothing to do with what comes on a plate. It’s the restaurant’s signature Crème Brûlée Shooter, which I first tried in 2005 and have kept coming back for since.

The drink is usually served from Thursdays to Saturdays, with the kitchen preparing the custard and the bar staff the shot of liquor. Each serving of custard is placed on top of the liquor in a two-ounce glass. Once prepared, the glasses are slid into a refrigerator until Vancouverites come asking.

MORE GREAT DESSERTS: GRANDMA LAMBE’S APPLE PIES

When served, diners are given a dessert spoon to crack the burnt sugar and to swirl the custard around in the liquor before throwing it back. It’s absolutely marvellous, a ticklish and decadent sensation for the mouth.

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September 26, 2011

The future according to Bruce Poon Tip

In tumultuous times, with the world economy seemingly teetering on disaster and upheaval coursing across the planet, Bruce Poon Tip’s mind leaps forward. While so many others are ruminating on the problems of today, the founder of GAP Adventures is focused on the decades ahead as he thinks about decisions that need to be made for Earth circa 2031 or so.

Bruce_Poon_Tip

Bruce Poon Tip will speak Tuesday at the Future of Tourism Conference in Toronto. (Photo courtesy of GAP Adventures)

Poon Tip, leader of one of the most successful travel companies in the world and a Canadian triumph, is constantly working for bigger goals. Hence this remarkable statement about his company: “We haven’t even begun doing what I want to do.”

Consider that GAP employs more than 1,350 people globally, is the leading adventure company in the world and is a model of good corporate citizenship, and you have to wonder what Poon Tip has up his iPhone’s sleeve. On Tuesday, we will find out some of his plans, including details of GAP’s first North American tour offering.

“The Future of Tourism” conference at Toronto’s Winter Garden Theatre (189 Yonge Street) isn’t about introducing products, however. Nor is it about reveling in GAP’s success. Poon Tip is gathering industry leaders on World Tourism Day to discuss what he believes is the most important issue for the trade: How to properly deal with the anticipated boom in business that will take place in the next decade.

Despite the economic turmoil and the retrenching of pocket books in the U.S. and elsewhere, Poon Tip says travel is expected to double by 2025 and the industry needs to be ready for the growth.

“We’re going to talk about how business models and companies have to change in order to be sustainable,” he said in a phone conversation the other day. “We see extreme hot spots that aren’t prepared for it or don’t have the infrastructure to support the growth.”

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September 19, 2011

Record salmon caught at Queen Charlotte Lodge

Record Queen Charlotte Lodge Fish

This 84-pound female Chinook salmon broke a Queen Charlotte Lodge record and made one fisherman very happy.

It took 30 minutes, weighed 84 pounds and was beyond priceless for Chris Lewis — it was historic.

The Queen Charlotte Lodge guest reeled in the Chinook salmon that broke the famed fishing lodge’s 11-year-old record by more than two pounds. Located in pristine Haida Gwaii — the Galapagos of the North and one of Canada’s greatest treasures — the QCL is a delightful place run with some of the finest people you’ll find in the hospitality industry. Duane Foerter, the marketing manager at QCL, reported to me that Lewis, his fishing partner Stephen Mason and guide Derek Poitras “were fishing along the kelp just east of Klashwun Point when both rods went off in a matter of seconds.”

Mason had hooked a 31-pound Chinook while Lewis battled with his monster catch, reeling in and then letting it run for half an hour until they could force it closer to the boat.

“They could tell by the wide shoulder on the fish that this was no ordinary salmon,” Foerter wrote about the silvery fish caught on August 20 in northwest British Columbia.

Chris Lewis and his record Chinook

Chris Lewis and his record Chinook.

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September 15, 2011

KGB among best recently opened Paris restaurants

Yariv Berreby of KGB

Yariv Berreby of KGB wants to transform French cooking. (Julia Pelish photo)

[During a visit in the spring to Paris, some foodie friends were excited to take me to KGB, which turned out to be an outstanding restaurant in the Latin Quarter. Here’s an account, along with notes a few other places I dropped in on during my stay. This article was first published on the Toronto Star’s Travel site.]

PARIS — One of the most innovative young chefs in Paris happens to be an Israeli man inspired by Asia’s cuisine and culinary philosophy.

Yariv Berreby’s food at Kitchen Galerie Bis (or KGB), a recently opened restaurant near the Left Bank’s Latin Quarter, isn’t fusion or microgastronomy, he says. It’s more about what’s been happening in Paris in the past two years, which is an attempt to change traditional French food as well as the French diet.

“We don’t want people to eat until they’re so full they’re bursting,” Berreby says in his kitchen. “We want to concentrate not so much on lots of butter and cream, but on using fresh ingredients and making the experience more satisfying, not uncomfortable.”

To retain the flavour without going to the tried-and-true richness of dairy products, Berreby uses lighter ingredients and modern culinary methods, such as foam that reduces the density of sauces without removing taste from a dish.

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September 14, 2011

Want to leave your job and travel? Jeff Jung tells you how

Jeff Jung - Pushkar, camel

Jeff Jung set out to see the world. The camel ride in Pushkar was a bonus. (Photo courtesy of Career Break Secrets)

Consider the possibilities if you were Jeff Jung.

One day four years ago, he upped and left his cubicle and set out to see the world. He learned to ski, improved his Spanish to the point where he speaks it fluently and gained a perspective that has considerably altered his life.

“I met people and did things that I never would have done had I been focused on my career,” Jung told me when we spoke recently. “It affected me profoundly.”

Since taking that “break,” he’s turned into an entrepreneur who encourages people to pick up and go. Recently, he was on a tour of Canada as part of an initiative with Gap Adventures, the outstanding Toronto-based travel company owned by Bruce Poon Tip. Jung’s website, CareerBreakSecrets.com, was created to guide individuals who want to do what he did. (And, really, how many don’t?)

A survey conducted by Gap Adventures and Harris/Decima this year showed that 74 percent of Canadians would take a break from their careers in order to further their personal development through travel. (The surprise may be that it wasn’t 100 percent.)

“Once you give yourself permission to do it, it’s amazing how fast things come together,” Jung said while speaking by phone from Edmonton.

He planned his break for six months, figuring out how much he spent on a daily basis — “it was a lot more than I thought,” he said — and then cutting that total down to a level that allowed him to travel with minimal financial worry.

According to Jung, there are three parts to a career break budget:

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September 11, 2011

Ottawa travel tips to help you plan your visit to the nation’s capital

Zak's Diner in Byward Market

Lots of good times and some great shakes can be enjoyed in Zak's Diner.

OTTAWA — Sure, Ottawa doesn’t have the natural beauty of Vancouver, the big-city energy of Toronto or the artistic vibe of Montreal. It may not even have the charm of Halifax. That doesn’t mean it shouldn’t be included among the best travel experiences in Canada. In fact, it’s one of the most underrated travel destinations in North America. As one American recently told me, “Ottawa is a gem.”

She was won over by the Gothic architecture of the Parliament buildings, the cleanliness of the city, the Rideau Canal’s attractiveness and the lively atmosphere of the Byward Market. I spent a couple of weekends in the city this summer and found that its winning qualities continue to endure. Ottawa is an easy city to get around, has a tremendous amount of cultural attractions to enjoy, a growing number of quality restaurants, and citizens who are pleasant and laid-back (including some of those who are politicians).

Next time, you’re in the nation’s capital, consider planning your visit around these activities, restaurants and lodgings.

WHERE TO STAY

Ottawa has been criticized, and rightly so, for not offering enough outstanding hotels. Aside from the Fairmont Chateau Laurier and the Lord Elgin, there aren’t enough five-star accommodations, and the chains in town, while reliable, don’t offer much in the way of personality. Hotel Indigo, I was happy to find, is a mid-priced boutique hotel affiliated with Holiday Inn that offers what a good hotel should: a marvellously comfortable bed and pleasant customer service. It’s also reasonably priced. You can reserve a room for a weekend night in October for $140 or less on the hotel’s booking engine.

Hotel Indigo room in Ottawa

Plush beds make a stay at Hotel Indigo a treat.

At this price range, the room was the second-best I’ve ever stayed in (the best being the abundantly delightful Le Petit Hotel in Montreal). At Indigo, the hardwood floors add warmth, the bathrooms are spacious and the plush beds easy to sink into. Room-darkening curtains, flat-screen TVs and complimentary WiFi access are other plusses that made this an enjoyable stay. The hotel, at 123 Metcalfe Street, is also a five-minute walk straight north to Parliament Hill.

On the minus side was the breakfast in the hotel’s Phi bar. The food is mediocre and the service tedious. The biggest drawback, though, is parking. The lot, beneath the adjacent Marriott, is typical of Ottawa underground garages: dark, frighteningly tight and desperately in need of renovation. If you’ve got a big car, you’re going to be in for a potentially stressful experience trying to get in and out of a spot.

WHERE TO EAT

Smoque Shack – Recently opened in August, the Smoque Shack is a barbecue joint that hooks you the minute you walk into the dining room and smell the flavour of the food wafting in from the kitchen. It’s a casual place with fair prices and some seriously tasty stuff, including a wonderfully spiced Jerk Chicken for about $12. Numerous side dishes range from $3-$5. 129 York Street.

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